The progress that your hand shy dog makes will seem erratic. The progress that is made one day may not be evident the next day. Expect this and persist.
The progress that you may not see on a daily basis will be evident over the weeks. The following section will present a method that deliberately assumes that progress is in a steady, straight forward manner. However, know that the learning curve is not that predictable and that each dog progresses differently. It will be up to you to adjust the following suggestions to your dog’s unique progress.
As a quick review, your goal has been to have the dog approach your left hand and take a small treat from the flat palm. Once this is a consistent and familiar task for your hand shy dog, the next step is to ask the dog to work a little harder for the treat. Again, the emphasis is on small incremental differences so that your dog can adjust to the changes. The suggestions from the previous article ( Remediation for the Hand Shy Dog: Part 1 ) are still valid. Now the change that you will make is very subtle at first.
Previously, the treat in your left hand was placed on the flat of your palm. Now, it will be moved slightly to the space between your index finger and your middle finger. There is a reason for this specific location - and the reason is that eventually you want to hold the treat between your index and middle finger. However, that may be days away. Your dog will notice the slight change in the location of the treat in your hand and some progress may be lost. Remember - patience; the dog will determine the rate of progress. The dog will let you know when it is comfortable again.
When the dog is taking the treat again, the next step can be taken. The presentation of your hand has been flat, with the palm up. Now, slightly tilt the hand - not much, just slightly. The food can be wedged partially between your index and middle finger to prevent it from falling to the floor. The food is still highly visible. The hand is tilted only a few degrees from a flat presentation. Allow the dog to adjust to this new ’sight picture’. That may take days. Remember, the dog is afraid of the hand and even the slightest change will be viewed with great suspicion. Please give the dog a chance to be bold. The dog will think it through and progress at its own rate.
As you progress, the dog will take food from your hand, even when your hand is presented at a slight angle. The reason for tilting the hand is that eventually you want to present the hand with the palm down. The reasons for this are many. The usual approach of the hand that a dog will see is with the palm down. The palm down (with a piece of treat wedged between the fingers) allows you to create a situation for the dog to work even harder for the treat. It is a huge progress for the dog.
The situation that you want to create is this:
food between the fingers.
presentation of the hand with the palm down.
and the hand four to six inches off the floor/ground.
With your hand four to six inches off the floor and with the palm down presentation, the dog will have to initiate hand contact in order to reach the food. The dog has to do this. There is no other way for the dog to reach the food. You have been working for weeks to reach this point.
The dog knows that there is food in your hand. Now, the dog must initiate the ‘hand to muzzle’ contact in order to reach its treat. And, after the dog does that, in a low whisper, please tell the dog that you recognize what a brave soul it is - and perhaps a word of ‘thanks’ to the dog for having such great trust in you.
The progress that your hand shy dog makes will seem erratic. The progress that is made one day may not be evident the next day. Expect this and persist.
The progress that you may not see on a daily basis will be evident over the weeks. The following section will present a method that deliberately assumes that progress is in a steady, straight forward manner. However, know that the learning curve is not that predictable and that each dog progresses differently. It will be up to you to adjust the following suggestions to your dog’s unique progress.
As a quick review, your goal has been to have the dog approach your left hand and take a small treat from the flat palm. Once this is a consistent and familiar task for your hand shy dog, the next step is to ask the dog to work a little harder for the treat. Again, the emphasis is on small incremental differences so that your dog can adjust to the changes. The suggestions from the previous article ( Remediation for the Hand Shy Dog: Part 1 ) are still valid. Now the change that you will make is very subtle at first.
Previously, the treat in your left hand was placed on the flat of your palm. Now, it will be moved slightly to the space between your index finger and your middle finger. There is a reason for this specific location - and the reason is that eventually you want to hold the treat between your index and middle finger. However, that may be days away. Your dog will notice the slight change in the location of the treat in your hand and some progress may be lost. Remember - patience; the dog will determine the rate of progress. The dog will let you know when it is comfortable again.
When the dog is taking the treat again, the next step can be taken. The presentation of your hand has been flat, with the palm up. Now, slightly tilt the hand - not much, just slightly. The food can be wedged partially between your index and middle finger to prevent it from falling to the floor. The food is still highly visible. The hand is tilted only a few degrees from a flat presentation. Allow the dog to adjust to this new ’sight picture’. That may take days. Remember, the dog is afraid of the hand and even the slightest change will be viewed with great suspicion. Please give the dog a chance to be bold. The dog will think it through and progress at its own rate.
As you progress, the dog will take food from your hand, even when your hand is presented at a slight angle. The reason for tilting the hand is that eventually you want to present the hand with the palm down. The reasons for this are many. The usual approach of the hand that a dog will see is with the palm down. The palm down (with a piece of treat wedged between the fingers) allows you to create a situation for the dog to work even harder for the treat. It is a huge progress for the dog.
The situation that you want to create is this:
food between the fingers.
presentation of the hand with the palm down.
and the hand four to six inches off the floor/ground.
With your hand four to six inches off the floor and with the palm down presentation, the dog will have to initiate hand contact in order to reach the food. The dog has to do this. There is no other way for the dog to reach the food. You have been working for weeks to reach this point.
The dog knows that there is food in your hand. Now, the dog must initiate the ‘hand to muzzle’ contact in order to reach its treat. And, after the dog does that, in a low whisper, please tell the dog that you recognize what a brave soul it is - and perhaps a word of ‘thanks’ to the dog for having such great trust in you.
Catherine Forsythe
Director of Operations
FlyingHamster: http://flyinghamster.com/
One of the salient features of the Taser stuns guns is that it is non lethal. At least, that is one of the claims touted by the manufacturer. At a Vancouver inquiry, the safety of the Taser weapons has been brought into question by two heart specialists:
“…Dr. Michael Janusz, a heart surgeon and professor of surgery at the University of British Columbia, told the inquiry that based on his study of available literature on Taser use, “almost all physicians would conclude that Tasers can induce ventricular fibrillation.”
The hearing was told ventricular fibrillation is an extremely rapid rhythm in the heart’s lower chambers, leading to ineffective contractions of the heart.”
Now that this testimony is public and on record, subsequent lawsuits with Taser related fatalities cannot claim a lack of information on its lethality. Cardiac arrest is not a warning issued by the manufacturer.
Catherine Forsythe
Director of Operations
FlyingHamster: http://flyinghamster.com/
It is truly sad to see a hand shy dog. The dog will cringe and, possibly, shake from a friendly hand reaching out to pet it. Undoubtedly, the dog has had some traumatic experience / experiences to have such a negative association with the human hand. It is a slow process to correct this problem. However, it is possible. The emphasis is on the ‘slow‘ part. It must have been a cruel lesson for the dog to learn to fear the human hand. It requires patience, time and work to convince the dog that the hand can be a source of comfort.
There are quite a few details about how to address this problem. The method might seem somewhat strange but there are reasons for each and every suggestions. The first goal will be to have the dog take food from the hand. That will be a major step.
Put a small piece of food in the palm of the left hand. Yes, use the left hand. The reason for this is that the left hand will be closest to the dog in the traditional heel position. You want the dog to be comfortable with the left hand. It will make controlled, heel walking easier. If you think this is being obsessively detailed, it is. The dog notices these things. The dog is shying away and is in a defensive mode. You can bet that it will notice all the details - and so would you if preventing bodily harm were involved.
Hold the palm of your left hand flat and rigid. Hold it out for the dog and do not move the hand. Allow the dog to approach. If the dog does nothing but look at the hand, then that is fine. Do not push the issue. Progress is measured only in terms of how much risk the dog is willing to take in trusting you and that cannot be hurried. You are dealing with intangibles such as past memories, fears and such. Progress will be slow but please don’t quit.
When you are holding out your hand, there are some other things that you can do:
don’t look directly at the dog. - The eye contact will hinder the dog’s progress. The direct gaze will be interpreted as dominance and possibly aggression by this dog. It is trying to overcome fears and you want to eliminate even the slightest possibility that anything will be seen as aggressive on your part.
approach the dog from a low level. - The mere position of being at a height above the dog can be seen as intimidating. You may want to be sitting, kneeling or prone on the floor. If you make yourself smaller, you will be perceived as less powerful and more friendly.
do not face the dog directly. - A frontal presentation is interpreted by the dog as a dominant gesture. You do not need that when you are trying to overcome a fear. Present a side view of yourself. You will be seen as less imposing.
hold your hand lower than the dog’s eye level. - Anything that comes from overhead is seen as a dominance gesture. You do not want that. You want the offer of the hand (and the food) to be a totally friendly gesture. Therefore, present it low.
try not to move. - Once you offer your hand, try to be still. You do not want to startle the dog. You want to give the dog a chance to be bold and to approach the hand with the treat. In this case, the less amount of distraction as possible is better. Let the dog think. Let the dog think through this problem without added stimuli. The dog is working hard emotionally.
be quiet. - Yes, be quiet. Do not be exuberant. And yes, this is contradictory to being told always to give enthusiastic praise. In this case, you want to keep the possibility of startling the dog to a bare minimum. When you advance to the point of giving praise, do so in a whisper first. Shhhhhh … quietly.
move slowly. - This is also to prevent a startle reaction. You do not want to trick the dog into moving toward the hand and then startling it. That would be self defeating.
As you can see, this is a slow process. However, it is only fair that this problem be addressed. The hand can be a comfort to the dog. The dog can re-learn this bad association with the human hand. And it is an absolutely necessary preventative measure to preclude future problems from happening. A dog who is afraid of the human hand is simply dangerous. It will defend itself - and so would you if a weapon approached you.
It is truly sad to see a hand shy dog. The dog will cringe and, possibly, shake from a friendly hand reaching out to pet it. Undoubtedly, the dog has had some traumatic experience / experiences to have such a negative association with the human hand. It is a slow process to correct this problem. However, it is possible. The emphasis is on the ‘slow‘ part. It must have been a cruel lesson for the dog to learn to fear the human hand. It requires patience, time and work to convince the dog that the hand can be a source of comfort.
There are quite a few details about how to address this problem. The method might seem somewhat strange but there are reasons for each and every suggestions. The first goal will be to have the dog take food from the hand. That will be a major step.
Put a small piece of food in the palm of the left hand. Yes, use the left hand. The reason for this is that the left hand will be closest to the dog in the traditional heel position. You want the dog to be comfortable with the left hand. It will make controlled, heel walking easier. If you think this is being obsessively detailed, it is. The dog notices these things. The dog is shying away and is in a defensive mode. You can bet that it will notice all the details - and so would you if preventing bodily harm were involved.
Hold the palm of your left hand flat and rigid. Hold it out for the dog and do not move the hand. Allow the dog to approach. If the dog does nothing but look at the hand, then that is fine. Do not push the issue. Progress is measured only in terms of how much risk the dog is willing to take in trusting you and that cannot be hurried. You are dealing with intangibles such as past memories, fears and such. Progress will be slow but please don’t quit.
When you are holding out your hand, there are some other things that you can do:
don’t look directly at the dog. - The eye contact will hinder the dog’s progress. The direct gaze will be interpreted as dominance and possibly aggression by this dog. It is trying to overcome fears and you want to eliminate even the slightest possibility that anything will be seen as aggressive on your part.
approach the dog from a low level. - The mere position of being at a height above the dog can be seen as intimidating. You may want to be sitting, kneeling or prone on the floor. If you make yourself smaller, you will be perceived as less powerful and more friendly.
do not face the dog directly. - A frontal presentation is interpreted by the dog as a dominant gesture. You do not need that when you are trying to overcome a fear. Present a side view of yourself. You will be seen as less imposing.
hold your hand lower than the dog’s eye level. - Anything that comes from overhead is seen as a dominance gesture. You do not want that. You want the offer of the hand (and the food) to be a totally friendly gesture. Therefore, present it low.
try not to move. - Once you offer your hand, try to be still. You do not want to startle the dog. You want to give the dog a chance to be bold and to approach the hand with the treat. In this case, the less amount of distraction as possible is better. Let the dog think. Let the dog think through this problem without added stimuli. The dog is working hard emotionally.
be quiet. - Yes, be quiet. Do not be exuberant. And yes, this is contradictory to being told always to give enthusiastic praise. In this case, you want to keep the possibility of startling the dog to a bare minimum. When you advance to the point of giving praise, do so in a whisper first. Shhhhhh … quietly.
move slowly. - This is also to prevent a startle reaction. You do not want to trick the dog into moving toward the hand and then startling it. That would be self defeating.
As you can see, this is a slow process. However, it is only fair that this problem be addressed. The hand can be a comfort to the dog. The dog can re-learn this bad association with the human hand. And it is an absolutely necessary preventative measure to preclude future problems from happening. A dog who is afraid of the human hand is simply dangerous. It will defend itself - and so would you if a weapon approached you.
To be continued…
Catherine Forsythe
Director of Operations
FlyingHamster: http://flyinghamster.com/
With the ever increasing fuel costs, airlines are scrambling to find ways to offset those costs and maintain profitability. American Airlines has announced layoffs and a fee for the first piece of checked luggage:
“…The nation’s largest carrier said Wednesday the fee for the first checked bag starts June 15 and that it would raise other fees for services ranging from reservation help to oversized bags. The other fees will mostly range from $5 to $50 per service, the airline said.”
American Airlines and the other carriers will be looking for additional ways to generate revenue. To avoid any unpleasant surprises, check the web site of the airlines that you will be using. Policies and fees will certainly be modified as operating costs continue to escalate.
Catherine Forsythe
Director of Operations
FlyingHamster: http://flyinghamster.com/
The Los Angeles Lakers may be favored to win the third round of the Western Conference playoffs. However, if the game is close in the last five minutes, the advantage swings to the San Antonio Spurs. The Lakers may have the best ‘closer’ in basketball in the league MVP, Kobe Bryant, but there are only a few others who are an offensive threat in the final minutes. The ball will definitely be in Kobe Bryant’s hands. Perhaps Derek Fisher and Pau Gasol will be a threat. Lamar Odom would be a passer in the final minutes - and a concern at the foul line. And Sasha Vujacic would be willing to shoot in the final minutes. The question is ‘would you want a playoff game resting on a Sasha Vujacic three point shot?’.
On the other hand, the San Antonio Spurs have been consistently dangerous in the last minutes:
perhaps three points shots: Manu Ginobili, Michael Finley, Robert Horry, Brent Barry - and even Bruce Bowen
perhaps a drive to the basket: Tony Parker and Manu Ginobili
perhaps points from the post: Tim Duncan and Kurt Thomas
Tim Duncan is not included in the three point shooters because he has made his one three point shot for the season during the Spurs / Suns series:
In the final minutes, San Antonio may be more dangerous than the Lakers, even with a healthy Kobe Bryant. Arguably, this may be a moot point if the Lakers can build a significant lead before the final minutes. The Lakers, though, showed in the Utah series that they are quite capable of squandering away a double digit lead. Without a doubt, Phil Jackson will have reminded his team about protecting a lead and about never leaving Robert Horry alone in the last minute.
